Style
Most wanted: John by John Richmond
There's a department store near you where you can buy dresses by Ben de Lisi, men's suits by Ozwald Boateng, knickers by Janet Reger, hats by Philip Treacy, bags by Orla Kiely, children's clothes by Elspeth Gibson and bedlinen by Cath Kidston. The thing is, you probably wouldn't think of going to Debenhams unless you needed an iron or some tights.
Yup, Debenhams. A pioneer of the high-street designer diffusion range, this store has a stellar roster of designers hiding behind the waist slips and tea trays, creating gorgeous pieces with sensible high-street price tags. The latest arrival is John, a womenswear collection by John Richmond, highlights of which include this suit in plum leather (from Debenhams and Debenhams Direct by Mail, 0800 0288266). A designer outfit for the price of a keyring and a Bellini on Bond Street. Not to be sniffed at, label snobs.
- guardian.co.uk © Guardian News and Media Limited 2010
http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2000/aug/11/fashion3/print
Designers at ...
In the olden days, there was a clear distinction between "designer" and "high street". Designer buys set you back an average monthly pay packet; high street clothes were easier on your wallet but far more shoddily made. Now, though, it's gotten all confusing. There are so many designers creating diffusion collections for high street chains that every Tom, Dick and Harriet can hang a little dress in their wardrobe and say it's exclusive.
The trend started back in 1994, when Debenhams had the bright idea of introducing BDL, a diffusion range of eveningwear by high end designer Ben Di Lisi. Though this was successful, it wasn't until 1996 that Dorothy Perkins hooked on to the idea as a tonic for ailing sales; they brought in British design duo Clements Ribeiro, who for two seasons spun their magic, creating affordable knitwear pieces. Now everyone is getting in on the act.
Debenhams is the main player this spring: the Designers at Debenhams portfolios include Jasper Conran, Pierce Fionda and Antoni and Alison designing womenswear; Philip Treacy, Lulu Guiness, Pip Hackett, Van Peterson and Orla Kiely providing accessories; John Richmond and Ozwald Boateng rooting for men; and even Junior by Jasper Conran and the newly launched Sweetpea by Elspeth Gibson for offspring.
Hot on the heels of Debenhams is the Arcadia Group, which has quickly sussed that it's the way ahead. When the Top Shop megastore relaunched in Oxford Circus in 1998, Arcadia snapped up designers Hussein Chalayan and Sherald Lamden to up the ante, both creating a small collection of up-to-the minute pieces young girls would want and could also afford. Two years on, Top Shop has added to its rails Clements Ribeiro, Tracy Boyd and Markus Lupfer; Dorothy Perkins is fighting its corner with Whistles Express (a cheaper version of Whistles) and Liza Bruce; Principles has Amanda Wakeley; and Bhs has signed up Owen Gaster and Paul Frith.
In March, Marks & Spencer are getting in on the act, too. With ailing sales and falling profits, they are joining the gang with their Autograph Collection, designed by Betty Jackson, Julien MacDonald and Katharine Hamnett. Will it help? I should think so: everyone loves a designer bargain.
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